Destination Tropicals Q&A

Q: I have a potted red sealing wax palm growing outdoors. No matter what I do, with fertilizer or water, the trunk does not remain red. The end of some of the leaves are brown and from the mother palm the leaves peel from one side of the frond and it is losing fronds. Would separating the pups from the main palm help? Is separating the same as with bromeliads, i.e. cutting from the root closest to the mother palm and replanting the pup?

A: Only the bases and stalks of the leaves are red, the stem under those encircling leaf bases is green. A red sealing wax palm normally shows green stem toward the bottom where the old leaves have died and fallen off. The browning of the leaf tips may be due to the plant drying out. Provide ample water so the soil is always moist and remember to feed regularly. A 100% controlled release fertilizer is suggested for container palms. I don't recommend removing the pups since they can be difficult to grow and you can damage or weaken the mother plant by taking them off. 

Q:  Do I need to fertilize my landscape palms? What should I use and how often?

A:  While many survive without fertilizer, palms really do respond to regular maintenance feeding and it will show in their overall appearance and rate of growth. Fertilizing keeps them strong and boosts resistance to pest and disease problems.

There are many inorganic and organic fertilizers to choose from but a balanced, complete granular fertilizer with an N:P:K ratio of 2:1:3 and 100% slow release N and K is widely recommended for South Florida landscape palms. Make sure it includes the complete complement of micro nutrients. Several companies put out mixes with these specifications and call this 2:1:3 fertilizer "Palm Special".

Broadcast fertilizer evenly under the canopy of the palm, avoiding placement next to the trunk or casting fertilizer down in piles, which will burn roots. Follow directions for the rate and be sure to adjust the rate according to plant size. The most important fertilizing of the year is the late spring application (at the onset of the rainy season).

Autumn fertilizing helps keep palms healthy through the harsher "winter" months. I recommend fertilizing a minimum of four times a year, e.g. 5-8lbs/medium-large tree in  March (where irrigated, onset of rainy season where not), June, August, October. 

Q: Is it all right to prune unsightly leaves from my palms?

A: It is best to limit pruning to leaves that are dead, diseased/ pest-injured, or frost damaged. The idea is to remove green growth as little as possible. Green leaves provide energy for the plant through photosynthesis and you want to leave green growth wherever possible.

Cuts in the green, living tissue can also be an entry site for pests or disease. Cut dead leaves off as near to the stem as possible or pull off entirely if the leaf base comes away with the leaf stem and blade. Wait until they can be pulled off easily so that there is no risk of tearing green tissue where the leaf base is attached to the stem.

Removal of flower and fruit stalks seems to cause little trouble for the palm. Certain palms such as Washingtonia naturally hold onto their old leaves and form an attractive and characteristic skirt of dead leaves below the crown if left alone.

Q: What can you tell me about training and grooming the plant?

A: This includes a number of minor care activities that distinguish the beginner from the more experienced house plant grower. Pinching is one of them. Pinching is the removal of 1 inch or less of new stem and leaf growth. When it is necessary, pinch to just above the node. This leaves the plant attractive and stimulates new growth. It can be a one-time or continuous activity, depending on the need and the desires of the plant owner. If a plant should be kept compact, but well filled out, frequent pinching will achieve this. Pruning is a similar activity.

Pruning includes removal of other than terminal shoot tips. Sometimes an entire branch or section of a plant should be removed for the sake of appearance. Disbudding is another related care activity. Certain flower buds are removed either to obtain larger blooms from a few choice buds or to eliminate flowering of a very young plant or recently rooted cutting that should not bear the physical drain of flowering early. Ivies and hoya, as well as philodendron and syngonium, are frequently grown in a formal pattern.

This can be easily achieved by training them on trellises. It is important to keep plants clean and neat. It not only improves the appearance of plants but reduces the incidence of insects and disease problems. Remove all spent flowers, dying leaves, and dead branches. Keep leaves dust free by washing plants with warm water and mild soap (cover pot to prevent soap from entering the soil). If tips of leaves become brown and dry, trim them off neatly with sharp scissors. Removal of alkali deposits at the soil surface and replacement with clean soil does more for appearance than for the plant itself.

Q: What should I keep in mind when transporting my plant?

A: When transporting plants, remember the two seasons of the year that can cause damage to the plants, the hot summer and the cold winter months. In the summer, avoid placing plants in a car and leaving the car shut up, because temperature will rise and destroy the plant in a short period of time. If you have to travel for any distance at all, the plant can be burned by the sun shining on it even though the air conditioner is on and the temperature is comfortable in the car. Shade the plant from direct sun while it is in the car.

During winter months, wrap plants thoroughly before leaving the store to carry them to your car. A short run from the store to the car in very low temperatures can kill or severely damage plants. Wrap plants thoroughly with newspaper or paper bags, and place in the front of the car and turn on the heater. The trunk of most cars is too cold to carry plants safely during winter months.

On an extended trip make special arrangements so that plants will not be frozen or damaged by cold weather. Many foliage plants will be damaged considerably if the temperature drops much below 50o F., so maintain as warm a temperature as possible around these plants when transporting them from one location to another.